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SUMMER WEED GALLERY

Why should we care? Basically a weed is any plant growing where you don't want it. Weeds compete with grass and flowers for sunlight, water, and soil nutrients. In addition, some weeds are just ugly. A few have burrs or rough foliage that can cause problems. (Think puncture vine.) This page Includes pictures of common weeds that cause trouble to residents of Boise and the Treasure Valley. Under each picture is a link that will take you to information about that specific weed.

Weed control. It is impossible to completely eradicate weed populations, but you can keep them under control. Many are prolific seed producers, so it is essential to pull, cut, or spray them before they go to seed. Some weeds produce hundreds of seeds per plant! Hand pulling and hoeing are the recommended methods. Chemicals should be used sparingly.

   
Common Mallow

COMMON MALLOW

It shows up in flower gardens and on the margins of lawns and curbs. It is not a particularly harmful weed, except that it tends to crowd out desirable plants, and may look unsightly in an otherwise well‐maintained area.

Common mallow leaves look somewhat like small geranium leaves, but they grow from a central stem with a tap root. It does not creep like ground ivy, but spreads by seeds. The plant continues to bloom from May to October, with blossoms varying in color from white to lavender. Each blossom produces many seeds, so it can produce seeds all summer.

Dense turf helps prevent the spread of common mallow in lawns, and low mowing will keep it in check. Thus good turf management controls this weed in lawns. However, they often pop up along the edges of lawns, in flower gardens, and along street curbs. (Yes, even in sidewalk cracks.)

Common mallow is actually easy to kill using mechanical means, so there is no need to use chemicals. It is easy to pull by hand if the soil is wet and soft. Otherwise, use a hoe or hand trowel to cut them off below the surface of the ground. If your lawn is too dry for pulling the weed up by the roots, soak the area to soften the ground.

Prickly Lettuce

PRICKLY LETTUCE

Prickly lettuce is a common annual weed in our area. It is essentially harmless, except that it takes water and nutrients needed by other plants, and can totally take over an area if blossoms and seeding are not controlled.

The flowers are yellow and about 1/3 inch in diameter, and it blooms from late spring to mid‐summer. The plant has a tap root and develops a tall stalk about two feet tall or taller, depending on the amount of moisture. All parts of the the plant have a milky sap that is sticky to the touch. It gets its name prickly lettuce from small spines on the upright stems and the underside of the leaves. This weed is easy to control in the yard or garden.

Simply pull it to cut it off below the ground before it blooms. (Hoeing is good.) It pulls easily when the soil is moist.. If you only mow it, the remaining stalk will branch into several new stalks, and you are no farther ahead. Once you let the weed go to seed and launch the seeds into the wind, you are in for a new and larger crop next year—and so are your neighbors. It can be controlled by herbicides, but there is no need to use toxic chemicals when mechanical controls are effective.

Spotted Spurge

SPOTTED SPURGE

A real scourge. Spotted spurge is a summer annual that sprouts quickly in hot weather, grows like crazy, and produces a gazillion seeds! It germinates and flowers from June to September. Though there are other plants known as spurge in other places, spotted spurge is one of our worst local weeds. By competing for light, food, and water, this pesky invader retards the growth of more desirable plants.

Spotted spurge flowers are the same green as the leaves, and it can produce seeds while the plant is relatively small. It will appear in lawns and can quickly produce its own green carpet, and on relatively dry ground where it appears as a dull gray‐green. It commonly appears in flower beds, border areas, and just about anywhere there is bare soil. Ragged and stressed lawns are especially vulnerable.

As pesky as spotted spurge is, it is easy to pull by hand because the roots are fairly straight and small. Their leaves and stems contain a sticky, milky juice, so be prepared to have sticky hands! Herbicides sometimes (but not always) kill the growing plants, but prevention is best—by applying a pre‐emergent treatment in the early spring.

Crab Grass

CRAB GRASS

You can't miss its unique shape—the stems are thick and angular like the legs of a crab. Beginning with seeds in the soil, crab grass grows rapidly throughout the summer, spreading into a large course‐looking mat of grass.

Crab grass is an annual grass that germinates from seed in April and May. While Roundup and similar complete herbicides will kill it, that is not what you want to do to your lawn and flower bed. After crab grass plants appear, hand weeding is the only effective treatment. And they are impossible to pull, because they have a spreading root system. The only ones you can pull are the very young plants in soft, wet soil. Otherwise, you will just pull off the tops of the plants, and they will grow back.

What to do? You need a sturdy weeding tool or sharp knife. Dig them out by the roots or cut them off below the crown of the plant. The crown is the point where the roots and stems join. In garden and border areas, you can chop them out with a sharp hoe.

You can protect your lawn from crab grass with a timely application of a pre‐emergent herbicide. The same pre‐emergent treatment will also protect you from foxtail grass, spotted spurge, and other annual weeds.

 

 
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